The Twilight Report

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States and countries

World Australia USA
where I have been. Last time, Tyler requested that I not use red next time.
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Thailand

More observations from Thailand:
Thailand is known as the Land of Smiles and if you do not know any Thai, a simple smile will be responded to with great appreciation and warmth. It's a good way to get around.

Bangkok is a very crowded and bustling metropolis. The cars dart in and out of narrow streets along with a large number erratically driven motorbikes. Pedestrian crossings are places where the cars will try to avoid you, but they probably will not actually stop for you. The drivers use their horns to announce to all that they do not intend to stop so "stay out of my way." Driving is a game of bluff. As chaotic and seemingly dangerous the whole road traffic scene appears it all seems to work without too much incident. We have seen only one small accident.

There are many different forms of taxis, including conventional cars, small open vehicles with a noisy two-stroke motor, motorcycles that will carry one or two pillion passengers, and elephants.

The women and girl passengers on the motorcycle taxis will often ride sidesaddle, seeming not to be holding on to anything and with their legs sticking out into the traffic chaos around them. On our trip out of the city to somewhat quieter roads, but still busy, we saw school girls on the motorcycle taxis sitting in pairs, side saddle, with legs protruding from opposite sides of the motorcycle behind their driver/rider. Mothers carried their quite small children (often in multiples) on the pillion seats behind them.

Elephant taxis, in stark contrast to the vehicular traffic, a sedate and they definitely do not "dart." They move their massive bodies very deliberately. While perched high off the ground atop their leathery grey backs, you rock back and forth with their rhythmic gait and think what it must have been like to travel hours or days by elephant. You wonder about Hannibal and those Alps. The elephants start, stop, and turn in response to feet moving behind their ears as their handlers sit on their heads. You are advised not to stand on the elephants back with your high heels as you step aboard, but even without high heels you first hesitate to stand on these magnificent creatures. You are told firmly "stand on the elephant." As you do, you sense the sold mass of muscle below and are in awe. When we arrived at Ayutthaya to ride the elephant taxi around the remains of the old city, there were many elephants waiting - maybe 60 or more in a small area, thirty minutes later we were retuning and passing a continuous stream of elephants and their happy passengers setting out and there were no idle elephants waiting. The baby elephants were restless and noisy and of course - cute!

We visited many temples in Ayutthaya. One modern very active one was Wat Phanan Choeng, where there was a big festival going on. There was a mass of people, most coming to give offerings to their particular figure of Buddha (there were many to choose from) and also to buy food or furniture from the stalls, watch ritual dances, and buy fish to release in the river to gain "merit." At Wat Phutthaisawan we saw an old and quite lovely reclining Buddha and dozens of more - gold, red and black, many dressed in yellow cloth, all sizes, most seated in the "touching the earth" pose. To get to some of the temples, we went via riverboat. One of the very beautiful old temples we were unable to get to, because the river was too low, was called Wat Chai Watthanaram. It sits directly across the river form the Queen's Palace and is kept lit at night so that she can have a spectacular view. We did see the Palace and the Temple from the river and could get a sense of how lovely it all must have been. The King in Thailand is highly revered.

Friday I am going to make Anzac biscuits for some of the local staff from the Embassy who are coming to a party tonight - also our driver Chai and the maid whose name I cannot spell but it is pronounced "Wow." Apparently, John tells me, this will be very well received by all!

Mum and Don
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Thailand

We arrived safely and well cared for in Bangkok - Thai Airlines proved hospitable with excellent service and food....

After a night's rest ... we toured the Royal Palace and its multiple buildings and shrines, another temple with a huge 150' reclining Buddha plus many more of all sizes and dispositions. The outside of the temples are decorated with flowers made out of broken china! It's all spectacularly colorful, with not only china but gold leaf and colored stones shining in bright sunshine. In general, the atmosphere is peaceful and protected some from the hustle of the heavy traffic all over the city.

We had lunch on the banks of the River watching the river tours and barges going up and down. It is a working river with lots of activity and commerce. Our lunch we were told was at a "chain" restaurant, but since it was a Thai chain it was very exotic for us. Sweet and sour short ribs and garlic prawns with a papaya salad was our fare.

After lunch John took us to see the home of Jim Thompson - an American entrepreneur who came to Thailand after WWII and set about creating the finest silk manufacturing empire. He loved Thailand, and his home reflects that, built in traditional Thai architectural styles and filled with art work, collectibles, and religious objects from every Thai period back many centuries...

Tonight we had dinner at a restaurant called "Cabbages and Condoms" run by a wealthy gay man who uses the restaurant takings to support sex education in Thailand. Apparently, Thailand has done better than most in the region in controlling the aids epidemic in part because they have a very open attitude about discussing sexual matters and also to integrating/accepting people with different sexual orientation. This attitude has helped with public campaigns to encourage safe practices. The food was very good at the restaurant!

My Mum
Mum - I hope you don't mind I thought I would share some of your adventures in your round the world trip.
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So Much Laughter

One of the things that I noticed when I was staying with Megan's family and friends was the way everyone laughed so easily and enjoyed life. Maine rocks. If you haven't been there yet, I recommend that you visit. Maine is like being in the Northeast, except people are nice.
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Cooldown

Um. Okay after that I think I should say something nice about people and humanity just to show that I still care.

The technical lead of our department, Alex, owns a cabin or something in Maine (jealous!!) and was up there last week. Before he left I gushed about how wonderful Maine is and the fact that I was going up there at the end of August for the American Folk Festival in Bangor, Maine. He remembered this and brought back a program for the festival that he apparently got from the paper while he was up there. When I found the program on my desk yesterday morning, I sent him an IM thanking him and telling him that it was thoughtful.
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Maine

I arrived in Concord at about 8:30pm. Only half an hour late, and had I not been delayed at departure, I would have probably been on time. I circled around a couple of times while Sherry tried to describe where her apartment was over my cell phone, but eventually I found the place and parked in a slot marked "Visitor." I was on my way up to Maine and had asked Sherry if I could crash at her place on the way up so as to break up the long drive. That was what I had said anyway; my main reason was to see Sherry a friend of mine who had recently quit The Company to go to back to school to study patent law.

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She showed me around her new apartment, which is entirely too cute, if a little noisy from the nearby street. She showed me her schedule for each week which was blocked out every weekday from 8:00am to 10:00pm, and then told me, without a hint of irony that she hadn't really gotten serious about school yet. I showed her my portfolio from my Color1 class, and we talked about numerous things, including what would happen to "The Group" now that Joanna had left the Hudson Valley for Berkeley. She told me how much her apartment was costing me, which was low compared with the Hudson Valley, but high for a student, which is pertinent, since she is a student now. I told her how excited I was for her in her new endeavor. I would have liked to have told her how proud all of us were of her, but the thought didn't come into my head until later. I slept on the floor that night and the traffic outside didn't bother me too much.

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The next day I drove the rest of the way up to Bangor and found a note on Megan's parent's house directing me to the lake. Part of the directions included a notation which said "Big Crazy Intersection. Just keep going east toward Bar Harbor." When I got to the actual intersection I wasn't exactly sure which way was east, or which way was Bar Harbor, but I guessed left, and I was right. After a while I thought maybe I was wrong, so I turned around. Then I realized I was right the first time and turned around again. I managed to make it to the lake where Megan's mom came over and said hello. Megan, Justine and Matt were out kayaking in lake. I was about to jump into the lake for a swim when Megan's father found me and said hello. I asked him which one of the distant kayaks Megan was in.

I had been worried all the way up that I would not be able to differentiate between Megan and Justine, because the last time I had seen them together was about three years ago, and at the time I had only just met them, and being identical twins, they looked exactly alike to me. We walked around to find where they had landed the kayaks, but I missed seeing them actually get out of the craft, so I couldn't use the intelligence Megan's father had given me to identify Megan.

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"Hi Megan." I said in a stilted kind of way, as if to emphasize that I might not be sure it was really her or not. The amazing thing was I could. Megan looked like Megan, and this other person therefore had to be Justine by process of elimination. "Hi Justine." I said with the same stilted speech pattern. Then as an afterthought, I said "Hi Matt." It hadn't seemed necessary at first because of course matt looked like Matt and there was no chance of confusing him with anyone else.

We hung out at the beach for a while. I caught up with Megan about various things, including, not surprisingly, what would happen to "The Group" now that Joanna had left the Hudson Valley to go Berkeley. I then discovered that Justine was a graduate student at Berkeley also and had met Joanna. I think there is an implicit: "That Janna sure is a trip." tone to any conversation you have with a mutual acquaintance of Joanna. Apparently she had been going around Berkeley saying "Wow, everyone here already knows that Wal-Mart is evil!" Maybe this would put an end to her un-ending tirades on the subject.

We also talked about Sherry. I told Megan about her excessive schedule and her assertion that she hadn't gotten serious about school yet. Megan pointed out that she was experiencing a lot of negative pressure from her parents who don't seem to express pride (or enough pride) in Sherry, who is, by all accounts, a successful Engineer and a hard working student. "Somebody ought to tell her how proud they are of her" Megan said, "I mean, aside from us."

We went back to Megan's house. I showed everyone my portfolio, which is still in a paper grocery bag, to be replaced soon with a portfolio box. We had fresh lobster for dinner. I was having difficulty getting into my crustacean.

"I just realized; this is the great equalizer. Usually you eat super fast." Megan pointed out.

I was really sweet of Megan's parents to put me up, and to feed me lobster. Megan and Justine were of course family, and Matt is Megan's boyfriend and family by association, so I am just a friend, but lucky to have Megan's friendship.

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The next day, we went to Acadia and did a short hike. The views were mostly obscured by fog. I brought my camera, but there wasn't much to photograph. We found a construction vehicle (which was not a constructicon), which was open and had the key in the ignition. Luckily, half of the instructions were torn off so we could not start the thing, and worse yet, the seat instructions were in Japanese.

[photograph]
[photograph]

After that, we went into Bar Harbor and had lunch. I attempted to eat my food as slowly as possible, but still tied for first place. It's just really hard for me to eat slowly.

"I tried to eat mine slowly." I said at some point in the conversation.

"Is that because Megan called you out on it last night?" Matt asked.

"Yes." I admitted, smiling.

Next we had ice cream, Megan's treat. I thanked her, to which she responded "Thanks for coming!" This is a really nice way to respond to saying thanks. Megan and I repeated this pattern a few more times during my time in Maine.

While we were consuming our ice cream, Megan and Justine recognized somebody from high school and they chatted briefly. Although I was not much a part of the conversation, Megan introduced me. This is a polite and proper thing to do, although many people, for some reason, do not do it. Again, this pattern was repeated many times as Megan and Justine ran into people they knew from high school during my time in Maine. If Megan wasn't around to introduce me, then Justine would.

The National Folk Festival started that evening and we walked down to the festivities from Megan's house. This was the purpose of our trip up to Bangor. Megan quit The Company almost a year ago and is living in Boston with Matt, and Justine is a graduate student at Berkeley, so even though Bangor is their home town, this was a distant vacation for everyone. Two years ago, Megan had invited me, and several other employees at The Company up to Bangor for the first National Folk Festival to be held there. The Festival is great, but my primary reason for being up there was to be with my friends.

The highlight for that evening was dancing to zydeco at the dancing stage. There were lots of people handing out things little bits of paper. Some of them were legitimate - handing out schedules for festival performances, and the like - some of them were not. At one point somebody handed some religious dogma. It occurred to me at the moment we had identified it as such, that I didn't know if Megan and her family were religious or not. I hadn't ever seen any indication that they were, but sometimes the religious types are not overt. Megan looked visibly annoyed, walked back and returned the pamphlet to the offender. I never take anything from strangers, but if I did, I would probably just throw it away ASAP. Here, I saw Megan was showing Principal, which I can respect, especially since she did it with extreme grace. Although I could tell the episode had made her angry, she never lost her cool. I don't think I have ever seen her loose her cool.

We walked home with one of Megan and Justine's high school friends. Ben is a musician working as a pianist on a cruise line for the last year or so. He had all kinds of interesting stories about the underworld of cruise service. He had been doing a country themed show every day several times a day, which Matt later described as the "Third Level of Hell." Apparently the piece concludes with "God Save Texas" with a rainbow of lights shining on a large Texas flag (are there any other sizes for Texas flags). The rainbow was apparently a inside signature joke by the gay stage manager.

When I went to sleep that night in the back room of Megan's house, I thought wrongly for a moment it was Saturday and that I would have to drive home tomorrow. When I realized it was actually just Friday, I thought to myself "I have an entire other day in Maine!" with glee.

[photograph]

The next day, Megan and Matt went on a bike ride and Justine and I went on the "Bog Walk." I think Megan had gone to some thought to make sure that I had something to do while she and Matt went bike riding, which I think was awfully sweet. This was nice because it gave me some time to talk to Justine alone and get to know her a little better.

We got back at about noon and it was time to go back to the festival. There were two highlights on this day: Jerry Douglas, who was just amazing with his Steel Guitar thingie, and dancing to the African/Cuban band at the dance stage. The latter had an incredible interaction with the crowd. I am going to have to find CDs of both these artists for the car.

The next morning it really was Sunday and I really did have to drive home. The festival was to start up again at noon, but I had a seven hour drive ahead of me, so waiting till then was not an option. I said goodbye to everyone, getting hugs or handshakes from everyone. They all waved to me as I drove off in my little white civic hybrid.

The Point of all of this, aside from documenting my wonderful little vacation in Maine, is to illustrate what a wonderful person Megan is, and what a lovely family she has. Although Megan is my friend, she is also my hero, because of the qualities she has evidenced in this story: grace, principal, generosity and kindness.

Also, just to say, Maine Rocks!

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